Nov 20, 2009

Not just a Romantic city

A lot has been said about Heidelberg already but I have some more.

Walking through Heidelberg is like walking through a dysfunctional time machine that flings you between past and present. An old world and a swanky modern one.

On one hand the sights are breathtaking. The Schloss is really worth the trouble. Views of the Neckar and the city apart, the facade of the fortress itself is so intricate, you could easily spend a good hour, on a cold, cold bench, just taking in the statues, and unabashed Gothic carving on the facade. But on the downside, (maybe a little economics and greed to blame) most of the fortress is off limits to visitors unless they join a guided tour. The view of the Neckar and the old city from high up on the fortress makes for that mandatory photo opportunity from Heidelberg! If that is not what you are looking for, then grab a sandwich and a drink from the cafe, sit on the lawns and enjoy a meal looking down on Heidelberg. The much talked about Burgweg is really quite steep. Asthmatics, take the Burgbahn or the cable cars that take you to the top.

Once you are done with the Schloss, walk down through the Marktplatz, to the AlteBrücke, or the Old Bridge. Though the bridge, the walk down the bridge and the Brass Monkey at the beginning of the bridge are all a tourist trap, it is just nice to walk across the Neckar River and just pause midway for photographs or simply just to feel the wind in your hair.

The University square took me completely by surprise! I walked in just as classes were letting out and I was suddenly in the midst of thousands of students milling about, chattering, laughing and generally being student like all at once! That itself is a charming experience. The churches, the statues, Hauptstrasse (Europe's longest pedestrian zone), the view of the ruins from the market all form the rest of the sights worth seeing.

But it is when you are done with the checklist of sights that you really begin to enjoy Heidelberg. I had to two hours to catch my train and that's when Heidelberg showed itself to me. Each street, every lane has something that will make you stop and take it all in. The curving side streets, with cripplingly old houses with their beams exposed, all end either with a peek at the river or a view of the castle. A house which has 1936 carved above the door was right next to a swanky bistro dedicated to Andy Warhol filled with kitschy decor and free Wlan! But that's Heidelberg for you. Pretty as hell, but equally confusing. Almost as though the city does not want you to slot it in an era.

And it is not just me who thinks so. Legend has it that the Americans loved it so much they refused to bomb it during WWII. It is not just me. Go to Heidelberg and get swept away.


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