Of quiet splendour

From outside the castle is a symbol of silent beauty. Perched atop a hill, the walk up there is tiresome, but once you reach, it still does not change. It seems quiet, almost like the castle creeps up on you. The grandeur is unavoidable, but it is quiet splendour.

Though not very old, Neuschwanstein was built in the late 19th century, it has aged gracefully. I was told in the warmer months the castle is surrounded by a riot of colours. Very believable considering the thousands of trees around it. But we made our journey there after a day of snow and the scene was very different. We were taken to the castle in a horse carriage and you can go ahead and call me a romantic, but there is definitely something about going up a snow covered hill, to a castle on the hill in a horse carriage!

Every little girl who grows up on a staple diet of Disney, dreams of being a princess in the Sleeping Beauty castle. And if you are anything like me, growing up with Disney for breakfast, lunch and dinner, you would have a lot of your dreams set in that castle. It is no secret that Disney was inspired by Neuschwanstein. To see the real thing surrounded by snow, lofty spires peeking from between the snow tipped trees, is a treat enough to make you feel like a princess.

For all its subtle magnificence from the outside, the inside is a very different story. Neuschwanstein was built or commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria (also knows as Mad King Ludwig) as an ode to Richard Wagner, the great Composer. The decor in every room is bright, colourful and complete. Every inch that can be decorated, painted on or carved has been done. Not an inch has been spared. Scenes from Wagner's operas are painted from the ceiling to approximately 4 feet off the ground. Chandeliers with coloured glass hang in every room. Ludwig was so enamoured by the swan that his bedroom has a tap shaped like a swan, with water flowing out of its beak! Doors have handles shaped like the swan's neck, ceilings have swan motifs all over them. He even had a ceramic swan which was really an air humidifier! Make sure you see Ludwig's telephone, his bedroom, his dining room and his kitchen. Ludwig was a recluse and every room has to be viewed from that perspective. He hated being photographed and you can't see any trace of him throughout his palace. No painting, nothing.

All in all, Neuschwanstein is a must see. Whether you are a romantic at heart or just interested in architecture, a Wagner aficionado or a tourist eager to explore ever inch of Germany, Neuschwanstein is worth it. Take a day trip, you won't regret it.
                            

Not just a Romantic city

A lot has been said about Heidelberg already but I have some more.

Walking through Heidelberg is like walking through a dysfunctional time machine that flings you between past and present. An old world and a swanky modern one.

On one hand the sights are breathtaking. The Schloss is really worth the trouble. Views of the Neckar and the city apart, the facade of the fortress itself is so intricate, you could easily spend a good hour, on a cold, cold bench, just taking in the statues, and unabashed Gothic carving on the facade. But on the downside, (maybe a little economics and greed to blame) most of the fortress is off limits to visitors unless they join a guided tour. The view of the Neckar and the old city from high up on the fortress makes for that mandatory photo opportunity from Heidelberg! If that is not what you are looking for, then grab a sandwich and a drink from the cafe, sit on the lawns and enjoy a meal looking down on Heidelberg. The much talked about Burgweg is really quite steep. Asthmatics, take the Burgbahn or the cable cars that take you to the top.

Once you are done with the Schloss, walk down through the Marktplatz, to the AlteBrücke, or the Old Bridge. Though the bridge, the walk down the bridge and the Brass Monkey at the beginning of the bridge are all a tourist trap, it is just nice to walk across the Neckar River and just pause midway for photographs or simply just to feel the wind in your hair.

The University square took me completely by surprise! I walked in just as classes were letting out and I was suddenly in the midst of thousands of students milling about, chattering, laughing and generally being student like all at once! That itself is a charming experience. The churches, the statues, Hauptstrasse (Europe's longest pedestrian zone), the view of the ruins from the market all form the rest of the sights worth seeing.

But it is when you are done with the checklist of sights that you really begin to enjoy Heidelberg. I had to two hours to catch my train and that's when Heidelberg showed itself to me. Each street, every lane has something that will make you stop and take it all in. The curving side streets, with cripplingly old houses with their beams exposed, all end either with a peek at the river or a view of the castle. A house which has 1936 carved above the door was right next to a swanky bistro dedicated to Andy Warhol filled with kitschy decor and free Wlan! But that's Heidelberg for you. Pretty as hell, but equally confusing. Almost as though the city does not want you to slot it in an era.

And it is not just me who thinks so. Legend has it that the Americans loved it so much they refused to bomb it during WWII. It is not just me. Go to Heidelberg and get swept away.